Fast Forward >> Fête de Ganesh

Photography and article by Danielle Voirin

On Sunday, August 31st, the Hindu population in Paris celebrated the annual Ganesh Chaturthi, or Fête de Ganesh.  World-wide the festival begins September 3rd and lasts for three days, honoring Ganesh, the pot-bellied, elephant-headed God of Wisdom, known as "the remover of obstacles." He is traditionally the God always prayed to first, the link between humans and the divine.

In Paris, the highly awaited celebration took place in the "Little India" neighborhood on the east side of the 18th.  The 4-hour procession, begins at the Temple Sri Manicka Vinayakar at 72, rue Philippe de Girard.  There, the statues of Ganesh and his brother Murugan are placed on ornately decorated chariots, one pulled by men, the other by women.

In preparation, the streets are washed in rose water and saffron and everyone walks barefoot.  Piles of coconuts are placed all along the route, to be broken in front of the chariots before they pass, symbolizing the destruction of the hard shell of the ego, allowing the divine to enter.  If you stand too close, you may get cut by flying shards, but they are quickly swept up to allow the barefoot devotees to pass unharmed.

Throughout the procession, musicians and singers chant sacred hymns, women wearing brightly colored saris walk with baskets of fruit and pots of flaming camphor on their heads.  Men carrying heavy wooden cavadis on their shoulders, decorated with peacock feathers, dance and spin until they pass out with exhaustion.  Then, they are promptly pulled to their feet, water poured over their heads, the cavadis returned to their shoulders, and they continue the dance.

Walking along with the parade, which traces a circle through La Chapelle and down boulevard Barbès, you find yourself handed cups of sweet tea, containers of chick peas and nuts, a banana from a generous devotee, and a dab of gold paint on your forehead.  The openness, generosity and kindness in such an atmosphere of music, odors and colors is inspiring.

It is estimated that in Paris 25,000 people show up to participate each year.  If you go, anticipate a crowd, but also expect to be transported to another world.  The temple on rue Philippe de Girard is open daily for religious services or just peaceful meditation. 

 

Comments

[suzanne]

amazing, oner of the top ten events i attended in the world, maybe the best experience in paris, or at least top five

[suzanne]

I found the highly enthusiastic recounting of the first attended festival. http://www.ivyparisnews.com/2005/09/happy_birthday_.html

[Dani]

Yeah, it's incredible. One of my top experiences in Paris as well, and has knocked out Chinese New Year as my favorite festival.

[gregory]

I bought this Ganesh artwork two years ago in Udaipur, India. Can anyone tell me the period it could have been produced? It is painted on the back of the glass with colourful paint as well as some gold leaf behind the glass.

http://www.artacadabra.com/web/viewPhoto.php?fileID=106