Paris Art Squat Scene

Text and image: Rooksana Hossenally
Image: Les Frigos

It is easy to feel overwhelmed by Paris’ myriad art galleries and monumental museums. If you’re new in the city and you’re looking to break into the scene, “FORGET IT!!” the city seems to be screaming, the art scene appears impenetrable. If you’re trying to get in through the Louvre’s front door, forget it unless you’re personally acquainted with Henri Loyette - that’s ‘Monsieur Director of the Louvre’ to you and me. The good news is that you can always slip in through the back door - and yes, there is a back door.

Sandwiched between homes in residential areas, art has taken over abandoned buildings where a rich cultural life of concerts, debates, exhibitions, lectures and workshops unravels in clandestine venues. Artist squats have always been a popular and well-known part of the city’s art scene due to the unbelievable amounts of empty buildings. Artist squats such as MACAQ, one of the most politically active, have been urging the government to open its eyes to the number of empty properties in the city vis a vis the horrifyingly high costs of renting in Paris.  Jeudi Noir - La Marquise in the Place des Vosges, no less, is another example of this activism; by successfully forcing their way into vacant buildings and setting up shop, these Associations  (non-profit organisations, the common way to formalise a squat structure) have pushed the government to face the issue. As it is near impossible for artists to find studio and workshop space squats have proven to be the perfect solution. iI doesn't hurt that the laws on squatting historically allowed occupancy  of a disused space to carry out a creative activity although these rights have been significantly eroded in the last five years since Sarkozy's rise to power.  Today there are a number of squats which are still fighting to stay open and others which have won the battle and are now ‘legalised’.  See our article from 2005 for more history.

Squats have always had a place on the scene in Paris and goes back to the days of the legendary Bateau Lavoir, as it was known then, when it opened in 1892 with some-time residents Picasso and Gauguin. Undoubtedly one of the most famous squats in history after Warhol’s Factory, the Bateau Lavoir still exists today in Montmartre as 20 artist workshops which are rarely open to the public. In the same vein there was also the Hôpital Ephémère which was closed down in 1995 and never re-opened.

Although many squats are being closed down by the authorities, others do keep popping up all over the city. It is however, nothing compared to how rich and varied the scene used to be only a couple of years ago. Recently, Paris lost a much-loved squat, La Miroiterie, which was a real example of accessible art and culture. Often organising concerts in a small ‘hall’ (never more than 5 euros), the events would always be fully-packed and the punk-focused line-ups were revered. With the closure on the cards for some time, the residents organised a huge ‘leaving-do’ when the last concert took place.

MACAQ is one of the few squats, which, through sheer persistence and through taking a dynamic role in the life of the nearby Batignolles community, won the right to occupy the buildings they broke and entered years back. MACAQ has undergone rapid growth in its members and its projects. Located in the affluent 17th district of Paris, MACAQ offers rehearsals and exhibition space for free. It also gets involved in housing protests and other actions with associations such as Jeudi Noir.

Les Frigos, or ‘The Fridges,’ is another organisation - members point out it is not a squat, which over time has become accepted as an important part of the cultural life of the 13th district. Originally owned by the SNCF (the French national rail company), the large multi-story concrete building covered in random art of varying styles is home to many artists who also use the space as workshop space. Les Frigos stands out from the cold modern glass and steel buildings in the area. They hold regular events here but Les Frigos is not open to visitors apart from during ‘portes ouvertes’, usually in the spring (when the residents open their workshops and display their work for outsiders to see) or at a number of workshops taught by the residents.

Just across the garden from Les Frigos is Les Voûtes, which is a fantastic venue offering exhibition space under the (indoor) arches of a bridge. Les Voûtes is run by residents of Les Frigos but is also an independent association (under the 1901 law) which is extremely skilled and professional. Presenting projects here can be a nerve-wracking affair as the guys really know what they are talking about. An original location, the atmosphere here is full of positive energy in spite of the residents’ ‘ownership spirit’ which can come across as hostile at first. The schedule gets booked up very quickly by exhibitions, concerts and film projections.

A very much-acclaimed squat in the 90s was Chez Robert, Electron Libre on rue de Rivoli in the 1st. The squat was closed in 1999 and reopened 10 years later following a promise made by Bertrand Delanoë,  Mayor of Paris. Exhibitions take place here on a regular basis. Today it is better known as Galerie 59 and although the website is not up to date, the Facebook page is.

Another ‘big daddy’ of squats is the renowned La Forge de Belleville in the 20th which was originally a key factory in 1912. After it closed down, the abandoned building started to see a more active artistic life, starting with a mural in 1991. Ten years later the factory was renovated and now houses 20 resident artists (although has remained an ‘illegal’ squat) who are still fighting to keep the squat open and who are very active in the cultural events in the area.

Not forgetting the very eclectic and well organised Laboratoire de la Création (1st district) in a privileged spot on the Faubourg St Honoré. With its high-profile sponsors such as Télérama and Arte Radio, it organises extremely popular events from debates to concerts, to lectures, shows, exhibitions…the list is endless. The Laboratoire illustrates a rare success story for the underground scene.

Another old favorite where everyone is so damn nice it must be mentioned, is La Petite Rockette at the junction of rue de la Roquette in the 20th, iinstantly recognisable with its bright murals on the building exterior. Well organised, La Petite Rockette is a small squat which offers two good sized and well maintained rehearsal rooms for a very small fee. The piece de resistance however, is the exhibition space which is lent, to artists for free! It is lent on a first come, first served basis. The squat does plan events several months ahead so artists should keep this in mind when approaching the organisers.  Each exhibition lasts two weeks with the vernissage on the first Monday of the two-week period. The guys who run the place are very kind and although some are a little laid-back, the squat has become a buzzing activity centre. Some residents give very cheap lessons and workshops. The next event will be a multimedia event with a photography exhibition on a Kenyan association’s projects, a dance performance by the same association, and a couple of concerts by two bands (Rock and Reggae, Roots, Ska).

Next up there’s La Suite in the 13th at Glacière. Seven floors of housing full of people who do not have the ‘right profile’ to rent in Paris. The squat runs a very good size gallery of five or six rooms with exhibitions which can run for a few months. Although the space is great and free, working with the people in charge of the gallery is extremely hard work and artists are never safe from the ultimate disappointment of their work being torn down at the last minute. But it is a good first time exhibition opportunity for young emerging artists who are prepared to work in a somewhat erratic environment. Les Grooms, however, is an association which runs the impressive theatre at La Suite, in what was formerly the building’s underground car park. They organise open theatre sessions every Thursday and occasional workshops, lectures, speeches, concerts and parties.

Many squats have closed in the last year, like La Générale in the 20th and the Sans Plomb in the 18th, but the good news is that they keep reopening all over the place. The Sans Plomb has since reopened in Ivry sur Seine in a garage and still organises concerts, debates, and exhibitions. The Curry Vavart association is also proud to present its new squat, Gros Belec, in the 11th district which opened last month. Its first squat, Boeuf 3, which is still going, is in the 20th. For upcoming events see the website or have a look at the association’s Facebook page.

Otherwise there are a couple of squats in one of our favorite streets in Paris, rue Desnoyez in Belleville where you will find some of the best graffiti in the city. Here are two very small squats/workshops run by associations of the same names: La Maison de la Plage and Friche et Nous la Paix which often hold exhibitions but are much smaller than the squats mentioned above.

There you have it - the lowdown on the shakers and movers of the alternative art scene in Paris.  It’s not all hours of queuing and schmoozing with a glass of champagne in hand!

Bateau Lavoir - 13 rue Ravignan, Montmartre, Paris 18th. (Not open to the public)
Hôpital Ephémère - today is the renovated Bretonneau Hospital at 23 rue Jospeh de Maistre, Paris 18th. (Closed)
La Miroiterie - was at 88 rue de Ménilmontant, Paris 20th. (Closed)
MACAQ - 123 rue de Tocqueville, Paris 17th.
Les Frigos - 19 rue des Frigos, Paris 13th.
Les Voûtes - 19 rue des Frigos, Paris 13th (across the garden from Les Frigos).
Chez Robert, Electron Libre/Galerie 59 - 59 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1st.
La Forge de Belleville - 23-25 rue Ramponeau, Paris 20th.
Laboratoire de la Création - 111 Faubourg Saint Honoré, Pais 1st.
La Petite Rockette - 6 rue Saint Maur, Paris 20th.
La Suite/Les Grooms - 27 rue de Glacière, Paris 13th.
La Générale - was at 10 rue du Générale Lasalle, Paris 19th. (Closed)
Sans Plomb - reopening at 9 rue Ernest Renan 94200 Ivry sur Seine. (Reopening)
Gros Belec - 107 rue du Chemin Vert, Paris 11th.
Boeuf 3 - 3 rue des Montiboeufs, Paris 20th.
La Maison de la Plage - 18 rue Desnoyez, Paris 20th.
Friche et Nous la Paix - 22 rue Desnoyez, Paris 20th.

Comments

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